Iceland adventures in August 2024
This summer I went to Iceland again. No surprise, right? It was my 12th time there and I was wondering myself - can Iceland still surprise me? Well, yes, it can! We saw amazing mind blowing places again that in real life are far more impressive than in pictures.
This summer we were continued to explore the South. At our arrival we got a surprise - the volcano in Reykjanes had erupted again (it was 6th time in one year!) By then it was the biggest eruption seen in Reykjanes peninsula, the fissure was almost 4 km long at the beginning and at our arrival it was already erupting from two twin cones. Of course, we were super excited to see again a real eruption. The one we saw in May 2021 is the most amazing and surreal experience we have ever had. We knew that this one was not a tourist eruption (not easy to witness) so access was pretty limited but still the authorities had to offer some viewing options as otherwise people were totally out of control - parking anywhere and everywhere, walking on an old lava field that is full of old mines… (an old military practice field) - very reassuring, right? 😁
As we got out of the plane and picked our car from Lotus, we headed immediately to the volcano. The winds were favourable to us and we could see the lava fountains in the distance. This time the volcano was almost 5 km from us so not possible to hear the roar.
In the evening we headed to the South to prepare for the rest of the trip. We stayed again at hotel Dimon.
The next day’s weather was a bit moody but still we decided to go to Landmannalaugar via F225 we just love this road! It never feels boring and there is always something new to see. This time we stopped at the Raudaskal - Apple crater just next to Hekla volcano. It’s a small detour from the main road, a rather easy sandy road except the last bend before reaching the crater. That’s why you need a decent 4X4 there. You can actually drive all the way up to the crater but we decided to park and walk it up. It’s quite steep but not long. The colours and views are amazing. Hekla was in the clouds which made it an even more moody experience. Hekla is overdue for a long time already and it can erupt any time with a prior warning of max 20 min.
We walked around the whole rim of the crater, it was windy and even started to rain/snow a bit. So we were happy to get down the crater and have some warm tea!
We continued all the way till Landmannalaugar. The weather was slowly clearing up. We crossed the only river easily although the water this time was much deeper than last year.
Indeed, it was a very wet summer and the water levels were really up. There were some regular river crossings (e.g to go to Maelifel) that were passable only in super jeeps with tires of 35 inches and Thorsmork was not accessible for a few days either even for larger 4x4.
Please note that if you want to go to the main parking in Landmannalaugar camping you have to book your spot before and you also have to pay.
We headed to Ljotipollur instead. It’s translated as « ugly puddle » and so far we had never seen it before. There are two parking places - one at the bottom of the crater and one at the top. We parked at the one we saw first (bottom) and hiked all the way up. What a view! We definitely had not expected that! The colours were out of the world! It also started to clear up and just felt magic. We walked 1/3 of the crater’s rim but you can do the whole. The views are just awwwww ohooooo omg everywhere! We were almost alone there.
On our way back we wanted to drone the Apple crater but the wind was very strong. We saw a regular SUV that had broken something under the car on their way to the crater and needed assistance. The road clearly says that a 4x4 is needed.
In the evening we just soaked in the hot tub and planned the next day.
The day after the weather looked the best for the next few days so we decided to drive all the way till Langisjor and hike up Sveinstindur. It’s a really long drive, it took at least 3 h to arrive via F208 from the south. At the first river crossing we were greeted by a ranger who gave tips for river crossings and the road F235. The road is pretty easy but is long and had many small streams and puddles to cross. When we arrived at the lake we were greeted in Icelandic by a ranger, he admitted that we looked like locals. I will take that as a big compliment 😀
Our objective was to go up Svinstindur. Initially it was not easy to find the starting point of the hike. Note that it is not by the lake itself but you have to drive a bit around a mountain to find the right parking. We were very lucky with the weather, the sky was blue and wind was moderate. Usually this place is wrapped in clouds even on clear days as it has its own microclimate. The hike up is quite steep and some places can be tricky. In took us 1 h 30 to go up. There was an older couple that was going up before us and they were a good reference. If they can do it, so can we. 😀 If it’s too slippery or windy, the wooow views are already after 15 min climb. You don’t need to go all the way up. But, of course, the view at the top is 360 degrees and is just mind blowing. I think it is one of the most impressive views I have ever seen.
The way down was even more tricky than the way up (surprise, surprise). The important thing is to look at your feet and not the view which is really hard.
As we still had some time left, we decided to check out Elgja fissure. It’s a 30 min easy hike to Ofaerufoss waterfall. Perhaps not the most impressive place in Iceland but the history of it is impressive. It’s part of a 75 km long fissure that goes from Katla and it is from the largest eruption in the last millennium.
You can also visit Elgja from Holaskjol highland centre via smaller dirt tracks too.
The next day we wanted to take easy, the weather was not fantastic and we decided to make stops on the go.
There is new attraction available next to Seljalandsfoss for the fans of plane wrecks. Over a year ago or so this DC-3 plane was actually in a field in the East. It had been there since its unfortunate landing. The current owner saw a business opportunity and moved the plane where it stands now. The plane is in a relatively good condition - much better than the one of Solheimasandur. It is also far less known. It has lots of explanations as well. Please note that you have to pay 7 eur for parking and you can do it via a QR code.
Our next stop was the oldest swimming pool in Iceland. No idea how I had not seen this place before. It’s a very easy and short hike by a lovely river and the valley is so beautiful! As expected, there were a few people there. Some even swam but it did not look that inviting.
Last year around the same time we managed to see puffins at Dyrholaey. This year they were already gone! And there was not a single parking available. People were getting insane ideas where they should park so we just wanted to escape that madness asap. We went to the Vic’s most instagramable place - Skool beans cafe. The coffee was tasty and the ginger cat is a true star - I confirm!
The next two days the weather was really bad. It rained like crazy non-stop. We could observe how a calm stream just next to our cottage became a raging river with a waterfall! It was impressive! Yes, the pictures under are taken at the same location on different days.
What to do when it rains? Go to the pool, of course! And go to a cafè!
We had a nice cappuccino and a piece of cake at Hamrafoss cafe for 37 eur. It’s probably the most expensive coffee I have ever had in Iceland. I guess you also pay for the view 😉.
The rain had stopped a bit and we even managed to see some places. Normally the waterfall of two sisters (Systrafoss) does not impress anyone but due to heavy rains it was just beautiful!
You can easily hike up to it from Kirkjubaejarklaustur and on the way you will see one of the highest trees in Iceland!
The next day the weather looked better in the east so we decided to explore some new and old places around Vatnajokul.
Svinafelljokul is one of the first ice lagoons that is on the way. There is a new road with decent parking options (surprisingly still free!). I have seen this place already several times and each time it’s magic. I had a feeling there was more ice floating (global warming?) than before and it’s easy to find calm corners and be on your own even if many people stop there.
The next stop was Múlagljúfur canyon. I was not sure how long and complex the hike was and we decided to give it a go. The parking was totally full. Luckily our Land Cruiser had no issues at all to find a spot but if you go with a regular car, it can be tricky.
The hike was rather busy with all kinds of people- people in sneakers and shorts and people well equipped. You have to cross a small river and, as it had rained a lot, it was a bit tricky. We saw some people that slipped and got wet.
Some parts are more steep but most of the time it’s a decent hike. I would say it takes at least an hour to get to the view point. Add up 20 min or so more for the very top. The view again was woooow wooow wooow. We felt like we were in a Hobbits’ land or something. The green, the birds, the glacier at the top and the raging waterfall… just woooow.
My advice would be to travel light. Don’t take your drones (too many birds!). We spent some time admiring the view and I also wanted to see the top so decided to hike it up light to see the view. Definitely worth it!
If you go, make it all the way up!
Our next step was the famous Jokulsarlon lagoon and the Diamond beach. The place is so touristy yet so amazing! We arrived around 4 pm and there was hardly any parking left. The icebergs and seals were making their usual show.
The Diamond beach was full of medium size leftovers of icebergs. Again, if you walk a bit, you have the place for yourself. My advice would be to park the car at the beach side and then walk to the lagoon under the bridge. Will be easier and you will not lose time trying to find a parking spot.
In the evening we were very hungry and we wanted to check out a local restaurant - Kjarr. oh, the food was soooo good! I definitely recommend. No surprise it has 4.9 evaluation on Google.
The next day in our planning was to see Laki but the rivers were so high that we thought it would not be very smart. Instead we headed back to Keflavik and spent some time volcano chasing!
We had not seen the road that goes to Blue Lagoon that was destroyed. It’s really impressive what they have done there: to re-route roads, make protective walls, protect electricity cables. Just wow!!! And you can still see lava fuming!
In the evening we wanted to see the volcano in the dark. As said before, it was not as amazing as in 2021 but still the fact that you see in front of you an active volcano spitting lava is impressive! This time we sent the drone to do the job (it was allowed to fly it at low altitude).
Reykjanes peninsula has indeed woken up and does not stop shaking and spitting up lava. It will be interesting (and a bit scary) to follow the developments of the area - what does nature have in store for us?
The next day we spent in Reykjavik. We found a really good 66North outlet - a place where you can actually afford something 😅.
And then - a hot tub for a full happiness to close the day and the trip.
Iceland always surprises you, so I’m looking forward to the next adventure!